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Hof
June 29th, 2008, 02:11 PM
I used to live in Manhattan; I did but I don't anymore.

Had an address in Park Slope too,but that was long ago.

In '72 I fled NY for warmer climate,and I don't regret a minute of it.
In '72 I was MAD at New York.
It's title,"Fun City" had become an ironic joke to me.It had let me down by becoming increasingly seedy,like a favorite uncle gone to drink.It was unruly and unkempt and after 7 years,I'd had enough.Enough of the crummy weather,the subways,the social disorder,the abusive taxes,the dirty streets and buildings.
NY was the only place I had ever lived where a fresh white shirt in the morning meant a black collar at sunset.I was tired of my job and my main friends had all moved on,leaving me with second-tier acquaintences.My money was always thin and was getting thinner.
NY wore me out and I needed to go,so when the opportunity knocked I answered.

For 24 Februarys I basked in sunshine,reading about all the horrible things that were going on in my ex-hometown,and I grew smug and told-you-so in my tropical cocoon as I avoided even the CHANCE of going to NY. (I went once,in 1985,to a funeral in Queens and did a Manhattan pass-through,doing nothing but killing time until my plane got me out of there).
Then I went to work for a company that sent me up to NYC on a regular basis--for 5 days at a time,a few times a year.

They were headquartered on Long Island,but the offices were mere steps from the LIE,so after a day of boring meetings I'd hop the train and revel in the nighttime Manhattan splendor.
On my first ride in 24 years into Town I was tense.
What if the City is the same as when I left it???
What if it's WORSE???
What if I freakin' FORGOT how to act like a Native???
I just didn't know.

Well,it was like running into an old girlfriend on the street,or having a friendly drink with an ex-wife,then getting lucky.

Only a few minutes out of Penn Station and I could see the changes.They were immediate,and very pleasing.I rambled through old haunts,re-visited places familiar to me in another life,sought out old friends.I caught taxis,ate pizza,re-learned the subway,drank beer in the Cafe WHA? I realized that I was home again and it was a better place than when I left it.
I could see that the City had indeed changed.It was cleaner,friendlier and was just as expensive as I remembered it,but somehow I felt I was getting VALUE for the bucks I spent.

So I began going back,sometimes piggybacking my work with my pleasure,sometimes just flying up for a weekend.(The next business-related visit I made,I stayed in The City and took a train out to the meetings.My Boss,who was paying the bills,thought I was crazy,but he was from Atlanta and thought that anyone who got transferred to New York should get Hazard Pay).
I had discovered New York again,and I couldn't get enough of it.

Since my Prodigal Return in '95,I've been to NY 20 times.

Throughout all my visits,I have come to assemble a mental checklist ("Why I Love New York -The List") about The Big City,and when the little Brooklyn-accented voice in my head begins running down the List,well, I know it's time for me to get back to New York,maybe add an eleventh thing to the list.
Anyway,here it is...

>Coming to New York.
Whether I drive or fly,mere admission to the Apple is an adventure,a excitible prelude to the First Act.I've come to NY through each of the airports and I've driven into the City across all the bridges and through all the tunnels.I now anticipate the Big Goosebump everytime I get near.
It always happens,too.---"Wow,I'm BACK!!!"

>Stepping out and onto the streets.
When I get to my hotel I abandon everything in my room and I immediately hit the streets.Doesn't matter what time it is,I need to walk,to ramble around and see what's what.

>Choosing a hotel.The choices are a mental maze.Mostly,the places I wind up at have been OK.There have been a few clinkers,but overall I've found some prety good ones.I try to choose hotels where I have not stayed before,just to spice up the visit,but recently I have found myself gravitating to a few favorites.

>Eating...And Drinking.
I love to eat.I do it every day,and have been for years.But when I get to The City I'm suddenly confronted with endless eating choices,so many that I sometimes skip a meal just to leave room for what is to come.I love to re-feel that.Then,when I leave The City,I regret all the restaurants that I missed.I vow to visit them on my next trip,giving the little voice something new to talk about.
And the drinking part??? Like the sidewalk,it's all over town.

>Being/not being a Tourist.
I know the City well and I know how to act,but I still see the place through fresh,East Jesus eyes each time I'm there.And I look forward to avoiding Times Square,but somehow I always wind up there.

>Charting the Changes.
There are always new buildings that have gone up since my last time through,and always old ones that are gone forever.That sometimes produces joy,sometimes dismay,but it's balanced by the understanding that NY is organic and it will always change.Besides,the new stuff is great eye candy.
Each visit always yields something fresh,like everything always costing MORE than before,or yellow minivan taxi-like machines replacing the Fords...

>Energy.
I'm sparked by New York.I want to meld myself into the incredible energy that brings its' percieved vibrancy to the place.There is no city anywhere that I have visited that delivers that feeling of aliveness that NY owns.Often,on my visits I'll park myself somewhere and street-watch,absorbed by the endless motion around me.I'll hang around for so long that I must look like a stalker or a Belleview outpatient to the passersby,but what the hell??

>Spending money.
There is no better place to drop a few thousand than NY.Not Vegas,not Hawaii,not Montreal--they are just costly adventures.New York is a money spenders' delight,and the City knows more tricks than the most voracious casino to invent ways to part you from your dollar.
Crosstown, rush hour, in-the-rain taxi--thirty plus tip??? I'll pay it,especially if I go through Central Park.
Thirteen bucks to go to the top of the Trade Center???--Why not???
Twenty for a burger and a beer??? --OK.
48 dollars for TWO rounds of beer???--Astounding.
Seven dollars for some Camel Lights???--OUCH!!!
Twelve to see the Skyscraper Museum.,or a thirty-percent tax on a hotel room--"Why not?",I ask again.
And again.

This kind of mindless spending can--and does--go on all day.

>Riding the rails.
I love the Subway.It's New York's neighborhoods,distilled down to where they can all fit into an aluminum tube that goes fast.Each time you come to a stop,the whole subway car neighborhood changes,mingles,merges,just like the Real City.Entire ethnicities vanish through the doors,to be replaced by new exotics going somewhere else.
Each time you leave one of the screechy,humid stations a whole new slice of the City is available at the top of the steps.It is no longer a threatening place (as it was when I depended on the Subway).
The Subway is an ongoing adventure.

>Skyscrapers,brownstones and stores.
Besides pizza,this is why I come to New York.I have always loved architecture.It doesn't have to be tall or imposing or historic.It can be the most mundane of structures but can still shine because of where it is and what it sits next to.It can be festooned with terracotta or naked in it's steel and glass,but if it's in New York it is somehow special.
Each time I walk around I'm doing something special.I'm seeing history,I'm hearing whispered stories of what happened there,or who lived HERE some seventy years ago.I'm seeing the high-rise decisions of long-dead millionaires sparkle on the Avenues and the fresh steel bones of tomorrow's New York aborning,seemingly everywhere.

I could add a lot more here,really compile a super list of the things that draw me to The Big City,but I won't.
That Brooklyn voice is urging me to add to The List and before the summer is a memory,I WILL add another.Or two.

KenNYC
June 29th, 2008, 07:14 PM
Great post, makes me even more excited to move ;)

Encideyamind
June 29th, 2008, 08:07 PM
As always, this is very enthralling. I think I shall devot a few words in a similiar fashion.

Hawkeye
June 29th, 2008, 08:34 PM
I have read a number of your posts Hof and I have always found them a great read, very informative and not a little inspiring.

I am flying to New York on Thursday for only my second visit and already I'm like a kid on Christmas Eve ! I simply can't wait to arrive in JFK and head into the city.

I visited NYC for the first time last July on my honeymoon and I can honestly say nowhere has ever had the effect on me as my few days in the Big Apple.

Keep up the good work Hof.

The Benniest
June 29th, 2008, 09:36 PM
Great writing Hof. I have to agree with many of your ten reasons.

Hawkeye, enjoy your visit! :D

AmeriKenArtist
July 2nd, 2008, 11:25 PM
Thanks for sharing. Very nice read. I'll be in my favorite city in two weeks. I've seen the gritty areas transform as well. I had been planning for a two-week holiday in europe, but with the recent air fare increases, NYC looks perfect!

The Benniest
July 2nd, 2008, 11:31 PM
I agree, the prices for anything related to traveling (flights, gas, etc.) is just ridiculous right now. Sadly, because of that, my whole family is staying home this summer instead of taking big family vacations like we do every summer.

Stupid prices! :(

ablarc
July 4th, 2008, 10:26 AM
Gee, Hof, wish I'd written that!

It so accurately describes my own experience.

New York IS better than it was. Isn't that great?

MidtownGuy
July 5th, 2008, 12:57 PM
Perhaps, but clearly that's debateable, depends what you're referring to. We all agree the Apple is now shinier on the exterior.
In some ways it is better, in other ways it isn't. People, culture, retail are all debateable in my eyes. Also, better than what time period? Better than Hof's period of exodus? Almost all would say yes. Better than some more balanced moment between then and now? I don't know about that. I liked the early to mid 90's personally. 2008 is in many ways vulgar, and I don't mean titty bars.
Of course cleanliness is always good, I don't dispute that. But I am only referring to physical cleanliness.
I can't help it, I hate generalizations. I think for older people that does hold true though, it's better for them in almost every way, except of course that many of them can no longer afford to live here.
I'd like to add another thing. Some people on this forum live in New York each day, for every little task from doing laundry to grocery shopping or meeting friends for a birthday celebration. Other people are visitors, however frequent that may be. For tourists, I'm sure practically everything looks better from the outside looking in, when you pass through for a short time.

The Benniest
July 5th, 2008, 01:03 PM
I'd like to add another thing. Some people on this forum live in New York each day, for every little task from doing laundry to grocery shopping or meeting friends for a birthday celebration. Other people are visitors, however frequent that may be. For tourists, I'm sure practically everything looks better from the outside looking in, when you pass through for a short time.
I agree with that, being a tourist myself. Some of buildings, just in Manhattan, I can't imagine seeing every single day. :confused: But yes, to tourists, especially ones who have never visited NYC before, even the ugliest buildings can be in their top 10 or 20 favorites.

Encideyamind
July 6th, 2008, 05:23 PM
2008 is in many ways vulgar
explain this

Schadenfrau
July 6th, 2008, 10:25 PM
Can I explain it?

There's nothing more vulgar than rampant commercialism with no regard for liveability, history, or the future, and that's what NYC 2008 seems to be all about. Banks and chain stores are pretty much the only things opening up in residential neighborhoods, and it's highly unlikely that they're planning on being in that location 20 years from not, or that they've given any consideration to the traditions of the areas in which they're setting up.

Gregory Tenenbaum
July 6th, 2008, 10:46 PM
Ah I love it when the great "cultures" of England, France, Germany etc are all reduced to diving at breakneck speed into clothes displays at A&F, Saks, Bloomingdales, Steve Madden etc all rummaging around like hedgehogs - looking for bargains etc etc to fly out of the city a few days later.

Ahh the great cultures of Europe - to them NYC is but a bargain bin.

Hof
July 7th, 2008, 12:50 PM
...some of the above mentioned tidbits deserve a vague reply,so here goes.

These days,I walk New York's streets as a tourist.The things I see and the things I do are all relegated to the touristy,mere pass-throughs that don't even come close to mimicing what an everyday citizen must experience.As an ex-New Yorker,someone who doesn't have a large circle of NY friends,a kitchen where I can cook or a place that I can call my own,I'm forced by circumstance to experience the City in short bursts,like people from Iowa or Belgium do when they visit.

I am however,blessed with a few decidedly non-tourist points of view--eg;I used to live in NY,I'm very good at compare-and-contrast metaphors,I know how to use the Subway--and I remember when.

When I lived in Town,it was hard NOT to notice,and often resent,the hoards of tourists who crowded New York's sidewalks and caused lines to form wherever they would congregate (yes,NY had tourists in the '70s).
They would grab all the taxis,eat all the Italian sausages,pack Times Square to Calcutta-like density and in general,just BE everywhere I wanted to be,and they all seemed to get there just before I did.I did not LIKE the tourist,even though I knew how much they all contributed to NY's hustling ambiance and its overall economy.
One day,I did something both necessary and ironic--I moved to Florida,where the entire economy depends on tourism and sales tax,like New York's economy depends on stock transactions and parking fines.

In the early '70s,Florida was just beginning to morph into a low-density sprawl.Her cities had dual economies--Wintertime,when everybody would prosper from the influx of forty million tourists,and Summertime,where everybody took a few months off and cleaned the toilets and waxed the floors,anticipating the NEXT tourist season.
I grew to loathe the tourist.From November until April they would cause long lines to form everywhere;they'd gobble up all the grouper sandwiches,clog all the roads with their rentals and pollute even the most isolated beaches with their fat kids and boom-box noise,raising the onshore density to something that approximated South Beach in July--without,of course,the syringes washing in with the tide.

A LOT of them--hell,most of them-- were New Yorkers on vacation,people who avoided shopping at the Mom-'n-Pops and shunned any kind of local involvement.They'd demand their Doctor Browns,complain about the quality of the pizza and wonder if we had any real neighborhoods down here.Still,a LOT of them moved here,going from tourist to locals the moment they signed the condiminium papers.Fla is very popular with New Yorkers.
Natives still call Ft Myers Beach "NY South".( I might also add that the busiest part of Ft Myers Beach,a place where every tourist eventually winds up on their visit is called "Times Square")
And don't get me started about Miami Beach--it's Brooklyn without snowplows.
Their touristy buying habits juiced the development of endless miles of vulgar,rampantly commercialized strip centers and fast-food alleys,places that served their needs in February but were nearly abandoned in the sweats of a tourist-free August.

Nothing in Florida was OLD,except maybe half the population.Despite having a history that extends back to when Amsterdam began pondering a new place in North America,95% of our visitors NEVER gave a thought to where the place had been,so gazing at historic neighborhoods was not a popular thing to do when in Florida.You don't come here for the culture or the architecture,and nothing that you see today was there twenty years ago,and certainly won't be there twenty years down...
You come here as a visitor and you don't see past the beach or the mall.
I DID NOT LIKE THESE PEOPLE,I realized early on.

So,I had gone from one tourism mecca to another,and when I began to re-visit New York,I TURNED INTO that which I loathed,a damned tourist,someone looking for shopper's bargains and familiar chain restaurants.

The more things change,the more they stay the same.

KenNYC
July 7th, 2008, 04:28 PM
Ah I love it when the great "cultures" of England, France, Germany etc are all reduced to diving at breakneck speed into clothes displays at A&F, Saks, Bloomingdales, Steve Madden etc all rummaging around like hedgehogs - looking for bargains etc etc to fly out of the city a few days later.

Ahh the great cultures of Europe - to them NYC is but a bargain bin.

I really do have to disagree, though being a European you'd probably expect me to. But based on everyone I know that goes to NYC (and most people do, more frequently than you'd think) the culture of the city is a large contributing factor to going there. I don't think I ever talk to someone who hasn't gone to broadway show or two, taken a walk around Chinatown or Little Italy etc. We really do love visiting New York for what it really is. That being said, for most Europeans America is a very cheap place to visit, even more so these days with the exchange rates being what they are - so yeah, shopping does become a part of the trip. But it really isn't the only reason, I promise.