I spent $159 a day on food, lodging, local transportation and activities during six days and nights in Paris in November, with the dollar and the euro on par. My ticket from Kennedy to Paris, returning from Brussels, cost $491 on Delta, (800) 221-1212, www.delta.com.
Using www.parishotels.com, a free booking service, I reserved three nights at the two-star Hôtel Résidence Monge, 55, rue Monge, telephone (33-1) 220.127.116.11, fax (33-1) 18.104.22.168; www.hotelmonge.com. The smallish single room cost $68 a night with tax. The hotel is in the Fifth Arrondissement, near the Cardinal Lemoine Métro stop.
I used www.hoteldiscounts.com, a discount booking agency, to find the three-star Hôtel La Manufacture, 8, rue Philippe de Champagne, 13th Arrondissement, (33-1) 22.214.171.124, fax (33-1) 126.96.36.199, on the Web at www.hotel-la-manufacture.com. My single cost $86 with tax. Starting Wednesday, rates will be about $133 most nights through March 22.
Foyer du Vietnam , 80, rue Monge, Fifth Arrondissement, (33-1) 188.8.131.52, is a tiny informal place popular with students. Pho soup, chicken curry and a small carafe of house wine was $8.50.
Dinners at the haute cuisine mecca Pierre Gagnaire , 6, rue Balzac, Eighth Arrondissement, (33-1) 184.108.40.206, can run upward of $400 a person; I went at lunchtime and ordered judiciously (you can order either an appetizer or a main course and be well sated; each consists of a single dish with multiple side dishes, meant to be savored all at once). My meal - an appetizer, two glasses of red wine, mineral water, assorted sorbets and a parade of amuses-bouches - cost about $155.
At Androuet, 51, rue Verneuil, Seventh Arrondissement, (33-1) 220.127.116.11, part of a well-known small chain of Parisian cheese shops, my rich beef stew and selection of 12 cheeses came to $38, with two glasses of house red and a mineral water.
The boisterous, stylish 404, at 69, rue de Gravilliers, Third Arrondissement,(33-1) 18.104.22.168, a Moroccan restaurant, turns into a dance party after midnight. Two friends and I enjoyed appetizers, couscous and lamb and chicken tagines, a bottle of Moroccan red, mint tea and a plate of homemade sweets for $105.
Les Éditeurs, 4, carrefour de l'Odéon, Sixth Arrondissement; (33-1) 22.214.171.124, An excellent full breakfast with eggs, juice, croissant and cappuccino costs $15. Open daily, 8 a.m. to 2 a.m.
Fauchon, 26, place de la Madeleine, Eighth Arrondissement; (33-1) 126.96.36.199. A pot of tea and a plate of petits fourswas $15.
The Champagne bar at Galeries Lafayette, 40, boulevard Haussmann, Ninth Arrondissement, (33-1) 188.8.131.52, serves bubbly for around $9 a glass.
At the Café Flo at Printemps, 64, boulevard Haussmann, Ninth Arrondissement, (33-1) 42.82.50.00, a plate of cheese and glass of wine is about $20.
Musée Guimet, 6, place d'Iéna, 16th Arrondissement, (33-1) 56.52.53.00; open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. except Tuesday. Admission is $5.50.
Musée National d'Art Moderne, Centre Georges-Pompidou, off the Rue St.-Martin, Fourth Arrondissement, (33-1) 184.108.40.206; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., closed Tuesday; $5.50.
Musée Picasso, 5, rue de Thorigny, (33-1) 220.127.116.11, Fourth Arrondissement; 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. except Tuesday; $5.50.
Copyright 2003 The New York Times Company